307210_coffee

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Espresso

The first, and still the ultimate, single-cup coffee...

To many, the difference between regular coffee and espresso is a mystery. Is it the bean itself? The roasting of the bean? The grinding of the bean? The machine? The dainty little cup that people sip it out of? Well, yes. Kind of. But let's start from the beginning.

THE MACHINE

470259_espresso_drippingAt the beginning of the 20th century an Italian by the name of Luigi Bezzera developed a machine that used the air pressure resulting from trapped steam to force water through ground coffee (this, as opposed to gravity doing the work). The strainers used in Bezzera's machine were of the single cup variety, similar in size and concept to the strainers of today's espresso makers -- the little metal cups that hold tamped-down grounds and screw tight into their receptacles.

In 1948, another Italian came up with an improvement on his countryman's design. In Achille Gaggia's version of the espresso maker, a spring-powered piston pushed water through the coffee harder and faster than the steam-created pressure had. This new spring-loaded system achieved a pressure that is still considered ideal -- about nine atmospheres, or nine times the pressure created by the earth's atmosphere.

Today, automated buttons and flashing lights have replaced the original pump-piston inventions, though some baristas still prefer the latter as they give the operator maximum control over the result.

And of course, in today's flurry of "double foam, extra hot, nonfat lattes" (and assorted variations) no discussion of espresso is complete without a mention of the milk frother. For, though espresso itself does not involve milk, its offspring (the lattes, the cappuccinos, the au-la its), wouldn't exist without it. Pleasingly for the efficiency-minded, the milk frother actually utilizes the steam that is created during the brewing of the espresso grounds, and produces delicious steamed milk with a customizable temperature and froth.

THE BEANS

Although espresso would be nowhere without the machine, the real thing has to start with the beans. Beans destined for Espresso are usually an assortment of a few varieties blended for a balance in sweetness, aroma, and smoothness. Once the perfect blend is achieved, the beans are roasted to a fairly dark color, though not dark enough to produce an overly-bitter brew. Actually, if the beans are blended well, some people think a light roasting may produce a superior cup. Finally, a burr grinder is used (it is far more consistent than electric blade grinders, and faster) to grind the beans into a fine coffee powder. The size of the grinds and the darkness of the roast will effect the extraction process; if your espresso maker errs to either side of the 23-28 second ideal range, you may want to adjust the size of your grinds: the darker the roast, the faster the extraction time; the finer the grounds, the slower the extraction time. Too confusing? Buy good espresso beans from your favorite specialty coffee roaster (May we suggest GMCR's Dark Magic Espresso Blend? Our Fair Trade Organic Espresso?), assume that they've been blended and roasted appropriately, and grind the beans into something that resembles dark brown table salt and is fine enough to adhere to your skin when you touch it.

CHOOSING YOUR EQUIPMENT

As with all aspects of coffee creation, getting a handle on your own taste, habits, and budget is the most important step. GMCR offers a range of options which range from simple and less-expensive to top-of-the-line Ferrari-style.

Jura Avantegarde S9 Espresso Maker

Impressa F9 Espresso Maker

THE DRINK

Ok, so how is espresso really different from coffee? Is it just dark dense beans brewed in a fancy way? Yes. But it's the fancy stuff that makes the product a separate beast all together. What the high heat and pressure of an espresso machine does is emulsify insoluble oils in ground coffee, oils that, in regular coffee makers, do not get extracted. The oils are formed into microscopic droplets and suspended in liquid coffee concentrate, thus forming the top third of a well-made cup of espresso, or the "crema." Once this luxurious light-brown layer is consumed, bubbles of aroma burst in the mouth, and oils glom onto taste buds, both resulting in a taste sensation that lasts long after your demitasse is empty.

According to Ernesto Lilly, "The distinguishing sensory characteristics of Italian espresso include a rich body, a full fine aroma, and equilibrated bittersweet taste with an acidic note, and a pleasant lingering aftertaste, exempt from unpleasant flavor defects."

Sounds good, eh? Wait till you taste it.

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